Wednesday, March 20, 2013

"While Arches Looks Like Mars, Canyonlands Resembles The Moon"

Gonzalo and I had to tear ourselves away from Arches National Park with the feeling that we needed one or two more days to do everything we wanted to do, despite the fact that we stayed there longer than most people do.  We made the last day count by visiting the iconic Delicate Arch and relishing one last panoramic view.
One last hike out to the Delicate Arch.
One last look at the majestic landscape.
Because the campgrounds at Canyonlands National Park are first come first served, we woke up to a beautiful sunrise and managed to repack the car with surprising efficiency.  In addition to all my earthly possessions and all of Gonzalo's touring gear, we had to bring food and water for the next several days since Canyonlands boasts almost no amenities, save pit toilets and fire rings.  

Once we got to the campgrounds, we had a lazy early afternoon, complete with a big late breakfast, naps in the hammock, and general blissful relaxation.  We finally got motivated after I spent a little time figuring out some easy things for us to do, including a short bike ride to some scenic viewpoints.

View down the road from our campsite (photo credit: Gonzalo).
Mesa Arch.
I'm not sure why Canyonlands gets the proverbial shaft in comparison to Arches as it has a vast beauty that is nearly impossible to capture in a picture.  We sat at each spot simply soaking in the view and attempting to imprint the awe we felt at the view.  We are already in love with Canyonlands, it's eerily quiet here in comparison to Arches and the few folks that make it this way simply drive through if they have an afternoon to spare coming out of Moab. We feel like we've stumbled on the greatest secret ever.

Absolutely unreal.
We decided that we would make the drive to the Grand View Point Overlook shortly before sunset, schlep a stove and some hot chocolate, and watch the sun set over a 360 degree panorama.

Creating the moment at sunset... Thanks to Tyson for leaving the leftover Amarula!
Trying desperately to burn the view into my memory (photo credit: Gonzalo).
The real reason for my detour to Canyonlands was not just its close proximity to Arches or its views, but rather because mountain bikers come for the bragging rights that come with bombing down the Shafer Trail and riding White Rim Road.  It wasn't until we stared down the 1400 foot descent over the course of 5 miles that we understood what a gem we had discovered.  And luck would have it, Shafer Trail was closed to 4WD traffic so we had a blissfully empty trail to run.  We took our time and gave our bikes their well-deserved glamour shots tour as well.

Shafer Trail Road from the top... we rode this bad boy five miles down to rock White Rim Road.  We also made the arduous climb out.
With no 4WD traffic, we had an open playground.
That speck is Gonzalo rocking the descent on his touring bike.
My baby in sleek mountain biking mode.

One of many slightly dangerous (for our bikes) glamour shots.
My Troll proves she's fit for dirt (photo credit: Gonzalo).
Taking in the view (photo credit: Gonzalo).
The long climb out (photo credit: Gonzalo, who is a beast on wheels up the hills and had me by a couple switchbacks).
The campgrounds at the Island in the Sky section of Canyonlands boasts just 12 campsites, which just adds to the entire experience.  Our neighbors were a wonderful duo of aging bachelors, Ron and Mike, who welcomed us into their fold, let us borrow their axe, made us tasty elk burgers, and kept us entertained with banter around the fire pit for hours.  If you are ever in the vicinity of Mount Rushmore, go find Red's Chicken House and BBQ and ask for Ron and feel like a king for a day.  

Shenanigans around the campfire (photo credit: Gonzalo).

*** The title to this post is quoted from Fodor's guide to the National Parks of the West.

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