Kung Fu Byk Ride: Day 1: San Diego To The Mesa Between La Misión And San Miguel

We left San Diego around 8:00 am flanked by Gonzalo's Mexico City cycling posse, aka Ricardo and the legendary Jacobo, along with our gracious host Eduardo. We were a motley crew with Ricardo on a traditional mountain bike, Jacobo on a traditional road bike, Eduardo on a comfort hybrid bike, Gonzalo on a touring bike, and me on a touring mountain bike. The route was primarily on bike paths and quiet roads, and the pace was leisurely to accommodate all riders. By the time we reached the border, I had hit my groove and was riding confidently fully loaded.

En route to the border (photo credit: Gonzalo).

We reached the juncture where Gonzalo and I would enter the highway for 500 meters to join the cars passing through the border, and so we said farewell to our cycling entourage.

Ready to run for the border! Not pictured here is Ricardo who took this picture, and who, by pure coincidence, used to live in Eduardo's current home.

Once we arrived at the border, the customs officials didn't quite know what to make of us. We had decided to cross with the cars because the pedestrian access has turnstiles, which are impossible to pass through with the fully loaded bikes. They kept telling us we had to go through the pedestrian access, but then I remembered that I needed to get my tourist card, which provided an easy diversion.

The immigration official was really friendly, asked us about our trip, and gave me a full six months for my stay in Mexico (which is the longest you can stay in Mexico before you have to leave and re-enter). A family came in shortly after me and asked us all about our bikes and our trip, and after a few "holy cow, so cools!" we had an open invitation to join them at their camp in Santa Rosalía during any part of their two-week stay there.

After a quick breakfast of tamarind juice and chilaquiles at a local family restaurant in Tijuana, we wound our way out of town on the highly trafficked Highway 1 Libre using Gonzalo's trusty GPS. Thanks to my years of bike commuting during Washington DC rush hour, this part wasn't so bad for me, but Gonzalo had a close call with a truck (don't worry, he handled it like a pro and was no worse for the wear).

Waiting at a stoplight in Tijuana next to a friendlier truck (photo credit: Gonzalo).

We had a hot, dusty, sweaty climb out of Tijuana, but once we passed the outskirts and cleared Rosarito, the traffic cleared out and the scenery vastly improved. We passed by Fox Studios Baja California where Gonzalo tells me that Master and Commander and Titanic were filmed.

One of the reasons to stay on Highway 1 Libre (versus Highway 1 Cuota, or toll road) is the delicious presence of the road-side food stands. The toll road is basically like an express highway with no access to amenities.

Gonzalo's favorite is birria, so it was no surprise when he pulled off for a snack here. I learned to ask for birria maciza to avoid getting the intestines and other goopy parts. They were delicious!

Although Highway 1 Libre gets a lot of traffic, we had a good shoulder for the majority of this section and despite the trash and highly populated areas, we had a few stunning views along the coast.

Sometimes, it pays to look back to see where you’ve been… I know I’ve said this before, but it remains true.

As you approach the small town La Misión, Highway 1 Libre has ample little markets and fruit stands to pick up supplies, but once you cut inland past La Misión, there are few amenities until you reach the outskirts of Ensenada.

After cycling around 80 miles, we had cleared civilization and found ourselves finally alone on the mesa between La Misión and San Miguel, the tiny town just before Ensenada. Gonzalo had planned in advance that this would be the perfect place to wild camp away from prying eyes.

“Wild camping” is a practice used among cycle tourists for several reasons, whether by necessity due to the lack of hotels or civilization, or by choice due to the economical and peaceful nature of camping. In countries like Mexico, the concept of private land is more flexible than in the U.S. and there is little risk in camping in remote areas. The general rules are simple: find somewhere inaccessible by cars, out of sight from the road, and leave the campsite as you found it. In populated areas, most folks are amenable if you ask if you can camp on their property.