Sunday, March 20, 2022

Sky Islands Odyssey East Loop

As someone who survives seasonal depression, I've learned ways to help make it through each winter like taking a big trip to somewhere warm and sunny to ride my bike long distances. This year, I took two weeks to wander through California, Nevada, Utah, and Arizona with the goal of taking up residence in Arizona for most of that time to admire the blooming ocotillo and explore a new corner of the southwest. My friend Aparna and I schemed a 4-day bikepacking trip with her family based on Bikepacking.com's Sky Islands Odyssey East loop. They flew into Tucson and met me in Patagonia to start our adventure. 


A home away from home to get ready for bikepacking in Patagonia.

Feeling optimistic as we head out of Patagonia.

Blue skies give way to dark storm clouds... 40% of .1 inch of rain!?

Emergency storm camp with vestibules pitched facing each other for socializing.

How it all went down.

Aparna and her family decided to cut the trip short due to their kiddo not feeling well, so I ventured off alone to finish off the loop.

Nothing like some hike-a-bike to start the day.

The other side of the mountain.

Aaaaah, flat trail to avoid the frontage road.

McDonalds provides a nice outdoor seating area, ice cream, french fries, and nice employees who let me fill all my water bottles with ice and cold water from the soda machine.

Gorgeous roads.

Sandy roads.

A magical dispersed site appeared right when I had about had it.

An oasis of clay, culture, and creation in the desert at the Canelo Project (https://caneloproject.com/). Reach out to them in advance if you want to camp or stay in their guesthouse.

He looks grumpy, but he's a snuggle butt.

The grasslands.

A few tips for cycle tourists:

  • Everything you need to know is laid out here: https://bikepacking.com/routes/sky-islands-odyssey-east-loop/.
  • The two things I think the bikepacking.com write-up does not cover are: (1) there is a reason why this is routed counterclockwise, and while it is rideable clockwise, it rides much better as mapped; and (2) the gravel roads in Santa Rita mountains are pretty gnarly and only rideable for more experienced riders running bigger tires and lightweight set ups... while most of this route is fairly moderate, those parts are not.
  • I've become a pro at packing in 5 - 6 liters of water to dry camp to give myself more flexibility and that strategy was essential for this tour. Do not depend on seasonal streams or seasonal water tanks.
  • A safe place to camp or park your car for your bike tour is TerraSol: https://www.marytolena.com/terrasol/ and it is also a hub for AZT through hikers.
  • If you like goats and animals, a fun quirky AirBnB to base out of is: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/41503562.
  • Make sure to get local intel at the Patagonia Lumber Company, the hub for all things gravel riding! If you happen to be there on a Sunday, then make sure to join their big ass group gravel ride.

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