Since the rise of nationalism in the United States, I have tried to disappear into the woods for the Fourth of July. I love this country, and as a queer Asian woman living in a mixed political space, I don't feel safe during this holiday anymore. Last year, I caught up with my van lifing besties Jess and Aaron in the Steens to escape the madness for some car camping and hiking. It was so peaceful and quiet that I decided to head back, but this time solo by bike. (Patrick had a gig out in Stanley, Idaho... I had originally planned to join, but realized that having a low level of anxiety for the weekend was not what I needed for my mental health).
Not much else to say here, other than the Steens is a magical place and especially so in July when the wildflowers are at their peak. Take your time to pop out into the interpretive parts on the descent, the views are much more magical on this side of the mountain. It'd be too easy to just go screaming down the hill. My hands needed the rest anyway!
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| So much exposed climbing. |
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| Campsite at Fish Lake was beautiful shaded with surprisingly no mosquitos. Or maybe just one that I killed. So then none after that. |
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| Wildflower lined roads from about 6000 feet on up! |
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| So many damn wildflowers! |
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| Since the second day had a little less climbing, I used the extra time to go and explore the Wildhorse Lake Basin (and filter water). |
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| So dang pretty. But so little snow as compared to last year. |
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| My magical dispersed campsite. Zero fireworks heard, thank goodness. |
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| Screaming descent needs a break sometimes. |
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| Learning about the first peoples... the Numu, whose descendants are members of the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs. |
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| Final stop... lunch! |
A few tips for cycle tourists:
- The road on Steens Mountain usually opens around the first week of July. It opened early this year due to the low snowpack.
- I parked in the little trailhead parking lot across from the Frenchglen hotel, which serves breakfast daily from 7:30 - 9:30 am and lunch Sunday - Thursday from 12 - 2 pm. Dinner is by reservation. The new operator is really nice and my post-ride lunch was outstanding.
- I am glad I rode this the direction I did for water access and the most reasonable way to split the climbing between two days. It felt a little funny having two 15 mile climbing days, and then a 40 mile day of mostly descent and rolling flat, but it worked out well.
- I feel comfortable saying that the dispersed site has reliable water at least though July and early August. I don't know if it always runs, so when in double, you can always filter at Wildhorse Lake and then pack out extra water for camping.
- The campsite at Lily Lake was so cute and quiet, I would have preferred to camp there, but the water source wasn't really good for filtering water. More like a marshy puddle in early July. If I had enough water to dry camp, I would have, knowing I could fill just 1.5 miles up the road. But it was also just enough climbing that I didn't want to ride up the road to Fish Lake, get water, and then ride back. Ha. Both are typically mosquito-ey this time of year... but due to the low snowpack, it was oddly mosquito-free. That said, bring bug spray.
- This route is really exposed and hot in the summer. You need to reapply sunscreen several times and don't underestimate how high up you get!
- This route can also be super windy near the summit. I got so lucky with the wind dying down at camp in my dispersed site, so make sure you have your tent staked down really well.
