Bikepacking Overnight: Sutton Mountain Spray Loop

My Memorial Day weekend bike tour plans were thwarted by rain. Yep, here in the desert. Rain. It has been a long, gray, wet spring and so I scrambled to salvage my plans for the weekend after when it promised to be hot and sunny. The silver lining from all the rain is that there were wildflowers everywhere (rather than fill this post with the gajillion wildflower photos I took, you can see them here). Eastern Oregon is a treasure trove of empty roads and during the springtime, it explodes lush and green. So even though we managed a day ride on a lovely route around the Painted Hills, I was just itching to ride out here, so I frantically moved some of the flex time I had at work around to make it happen.

I don't think I would change a single thing about this bike route or where I camped other than to have brought my hammock for lazy afternoon reading. This loop from Sutton Mountain through Spray along the John Day and back again was a gem. There are so many roads that cut through canyons that it is really easy to make half a dozen overnight trips out this way and I'm looking forward to coming back next spring.

The noon hour started out sunny, and as I descended towards the John Day river, a dark cloud awaited. Thunder cracked and I even saw a little lightening, and then just an hour later, the rain and storm passed.

There was a very muddy dirt road down to a flat area next to this reservoir overlooking the basin. If it had been dry, and if I hadn't only been riding for just an hour, this would have made a fine camping spot. 

The Shelton Wayside county park has all the amenities, water spigots, pit toilets, trash cans, recycling cans, and wood for $5 an armload. With 40+ sites, it was a little eerie being the ONLY person there on a Friday night.

Dinnertime and reading my book club book.

Perfect little site tucked next to the creek. 

Morning light on the red columbine next to my campsite... okay fine, just ONE wildflower photo.

This one doesn't count as a wildflower photo because my bike is in it, right?

Winlock road is the dirt road of my dreams. Beautifully graded and not dusty at all from the thunderstorm.

Sweeping views.

This little farm had some curious friends, goats, and an emu.

As I descended back down to the John Day river, the day had gotten up to nearly 90 degrees. I rolled into Spray and took refuge in the tiny cafe/grocery for a late lunch and grabbed a few cold beers to go. This is a favorite spot for local fisherman to swing by after the fish stop biting and motorcyclists enjoying the open road, all of whom were super nice and we exchanged pleasantries prior to heading back into the sweltering afternoon heat. My goal was to get to camp early, jump in the river, and spend the afternoon finishing my book club book sitting in the shade near the river, and that is exactly what I did.

Campsite overlooking the John Day.

I made a Corgi friend! He was very fluffy and friendly.

Morning light from inside my tent.

The slow climb back to the car.

Drinking in the last views before ending my day.

A few tips for cycle tourists:

• My original route was actually a bit longer than this and went through some additional dirt roads to Monument, but since my partner was about to leave for a month long work trip, I decided to cut the route short. This would make a lovely overnighter, but I stretched it out into two nights to recharge my batteries. 

• The Sutton Mountain TH parking area is a great safe spot to stash your car for bike tours out this way. It's a bit hard to find, so coming from Mitchell, you have to peel your eyes for a tiny dirt driveway in the middle of some bushes right after milepost 15. There is a gate to keep the cows in, but this is protected wilderness area, so just make sure to close the gate after you. The Mitchell city park has parking next to the pit toilets that would also be fine. 

• If you are going to camp at any of the BLM recreation areas on the John Day, pack in your own water as there are no water spigots! I loaded up in Spray because the John Day contains a ton of agricultural runoff and I wouldn't consider it safe to drink even filtered. 

• This loop runs through a lot of farm and ranching land that is fenced off. While there are definitely wild camping opportunities, there were also plenty of established camping options that were quiet and just lovely.

• There is camping at the Shelton Wayside county park, Spray riverfront park, Muleshoe recreation area, and Service Creek.