Day 3: Jordan River To Gordon River Dispersed Site (36 Miles)

I took my time in the morning to enjoy breakfast and coffee overlooking the water.  The crows were hopping around my campsite as I packed up and stole some of my snacks when I had my back turned.  Luckily, they were my emergency snacks that were a bit dubious in their age.  I was also finally starting to feel a bit better and hoped that the cooties had gone away.  There was very little traffic on Highway 14, especially because there was some construction that stopped the traffic periodically, so when there was a car, there were usually 3 or 4 that would pass, and then it would be quiet for another 20 minutes.

The ever-present evidence of the logging industry.

I made it to Port Renfrew just before noon and stopped at the local market to replace the snacks the crows had stolen, and then decided to check out the pub.  The pub was right on the water and the tourist mecca for Port Renfrew.  It boasts wifi, craft beer, and fancy food, so I decided to check in with David (my partner in crime), enjoy an Earl Grey IPA, and enjoy ahi tuna poke before heading out to explore the Botanical Beach in the Juan de Fuca Provincial Park.

Earl Grey IPA... sooo Canadian.

The ocean!

Micro-communities live in these holes...

A lone surfer checks out the waves.

The hiking trail was prehistoric green... this is temperate rainforest after all.

Real life bonsai trees!  These trees normally grow to be huge, but the harsh conditions here stunt their growth.  Also, all the wildflowers.

The route I had mapped out through dirt roads to get to Lake Cowichan just happened to take me by the Avatar Grove, a protected old growth forest that came highly recommended by my mom's cousin Hamar.  Shortly after I left Port Renfrew, the pavement ended and turned into blissfully empty gravel roads.  I spent a little time enjoying the grove and having a snack, but the mosquitos also loved the old growth forest, so I moved on a little faster than I normally would.  Sometimes, bike touring provides moments of magic, and at 6 pm, I found a beautiful dispersed campsite with river access.  I was able to jump into the river, set up camp, and even get a little hammock time before bed!

While my route was along the Gordon River, river access was sometimes impossible or very steep, so I took advantage of an easier access point to load up.

Safe from logging in Avatar Grove.

My kind of road... gravel with no traffic.  I didn't see a car for 2 days after the Avatar Grove.

My campsite was just about perfect.

A few tips for cycle tourists:

• The market in Port Renfrew is pretty basic.  I did manage to get an avocado, some cheese, and Wasa rye crisps.  The folks that work there are not the ones to ask for tourist information.  They are super nice, but really cater to the community.

• The pub in Port Renfrew down the road is pricey but has all of the things you need as a tourist, including wifi, nice bartenders that will fill your water bottles with ice, and folks that know when low tide is (which is when you want to explore the Botanical Beach). 

• Be aware of your water supply.  While rivers are plentiful, river access can be tricky.