Day 5: Cotopaxi National Park To Isinlivi (42.3 Miles)

We woke up to mist over the open valley, dew covering our the rainfly on my tent.  Breakfast was a decadent affair of steamed humitas we had purchased in Quito topped with avocado, queso fresco, and a few emergency Cholula packets I always stash in my panniers.  We were excited to pack up and ride out because we knew the day would bring our first really big descent down the other side of Cotopaxi from 12,500 feet to the valley floor at 9,900 feet.

Sunshine, unexpected pavement with bike lanes, windswept hair, and happy faces about halfway down the descent!

Back to the dirt roads I love so much.

The Kasch Klan... not many brother-sister duos are this rad.

After passing industrial flower farms hidden by massive fences ("Ecuatoroses!"), crossing the PanAmerican, and taking a "detour" through a random town where we accidentally biked through a soccer game that occupied its main road, we starting climbing back out of the valley.  We stopped in Toacazo for lunch, supplies, and a surprise political parade with a motorcade that was bigger than the town.  From here, we headed towards Isinlivi as we began our own version of the Quilotoa loop.  Our inspiration for this leg of the trip was the oh so sexy bikepacker Cass Gilbert, whose journeys on his orange Surly Troll led to a fangirl crush and my own mini-version of his bike.  We spent the afternoon marveling at the Hobbit-faeryland landscapes as we made our way to a 13,000 foot summit.

More cobblestone on the way out of Toacazo... good thing my bike superpower is having a titaintium.

Aaaaaand, after just a tiny bit of cobblestone, we were back to our beloved dirt.

Winding up and up, the dirt road was in pretty good shape, except for some deep sandy section.  Ed tried to blaze through a few and sometimes he won, but this time, the sand pit won.

Sandy tracks... stunning views.  Zero traffic.  Ani is somewhere over there dancing atop a grassy hill.

Ed and I making our way slowly up with a green patchwork backdrop.

  

Snack break.

As we turned our pedals into the late afternoon, we decided we would make a huge push and try to make it all the way to Isinlivi, and then have a rest day there.  And then, at long last, it was time to throw on some layers and get ready to bomb down into Isinvili.  Even though we were exhausted, we couldn't help but bask in the descent in the glowing late afternoon sun, which had lit up the surrounding hillside in warm ambient lighting.  Once we got into the groove of our descent, it seemed to last forever.  The warm rays transformed into a stunning sunset, and then to darkness.

Pictures don't do this moment justice.  I had to stop and just basked in the sun and the views.

Even though the descent called us, we kept stopping to not let this moment go by too quickly.

Fading light and valley views.

Illuminated fiery skies.

We threw our headlights on, rocked our blinking wheel lights, and coasted into town around 7 pm with no major incidents, except some rude sheep scaring the shit out of us as they baaa-ed at us from the darkness with no warning.  Dead on our feet, we found ourselves at the Hostal Llulu Llama, one of the recommendations by Cass Gilbert, a cozy eco-lodge that lives up to its reputation.  Luck would have it that the family-style dinner included with lodging was just being served, so we were invited to eat prior to any check-in formalities.  We gorged on lentil soup, fresh crisp salad, a chicken fritatta, and a sweet cornbread cake, stumbled to our beds, and passed out.

Taking a final minute to enjoy the wood stove before bed.

A few tips for cycle tourists:

• The southern entrance to Cotopaxi National Park was recently paved with an ample bike lane and an eminently reasonable climbing grade (well, as compared to the northern entrance).  It boasts many amenities and a much more official looking control point.  This is where all the tours and most tourists enter the park.  

• The area past Toacazo was pretty remote and we would have been completely lost without Maps.ME.  Oftentimes, we would find ourselves at intersections, some with as many as five intersecting roads.  Even though not all those roads were on the map, we could see if we were on the right road based on the GPS.

• There were plenty of remote places that seemed ideal for wild camping near the 13,000 foot summit before we descended into Isinlivi.  Nothing with water, so those wanting to camp would need to pack water in.

• The Hostal Llulu Llama was a bike tourists dream.  Hot showers, lots of communal space both inside and out, a hot tub, options from dorms to private cabins, a secure area to store bikes, gorgeous views, and friendly front desk staff!  It is a little pricey for those on a budget at $20 per person, but that includes a beautifully prepared breakfast and dinner.  Most of other folks staying there are hiking the Quilatoa loop.  I've been told that it can be completely booked up in advance, so if it is high season, you may need to make reservations in advance or beg to throw up a tent outside.  We just showed up and were very lucky to nab the last 3 dorm beds.