Day 122: Toniná

Our primary reason for stopping in Ocosingo was to have a safe place to leave our bikes while we explored the nearby and often-overlooked-by-tourists Mayan ruins of Toniná.  Historically, these ruins are important because it was here that the king of Palenque was (likely) decapitated.  But more interesting, at least to me, is that these ruins are the tallest of the ancient Mayan world, a multi-level playground that reaches the stars and which is full of maze-like passageways to explore.

Toniná in the distance... the proclamation by the EZLN that this is their autonomous land is belied by a very large stone sign at the entrance to the ruins that says it is federal property.

My first ruins with chickens running about.

Not a sprawling complex like other ruins... the only way is up.

Art made by the current inhabitants of the dark passageways.

These windows were designed to funnel sunlight in certain ways at certain times of day by the Mayans... at least so says the documentary film that shows at 2pm and 4pm in the seemingly brand-new museum on site.

We had a blast exploring these ancient buildings.

Although many of the sculptures and artwork have been excavated and are now on display at the museum, some of it is still in tact at this site.

Yes, that is one massive staircase to the top.

Climbing on thangs (photo credit: Gonzalo).

More photogenic flowers.

Gonzalo carefully works his up some stairs.

A little break at the top to enjoy the view.

Toniná is nestled in a gorgeous valley.

What goes up must come down.

And down some more (photo credit: Gonzalo).

I am amused that the site designates this staircase as the way to get to the top.  Only in Mexico.

Obviously a replica, but still pretty baller.

A few travel notes for cyclists:

• We left our bikes at the Hospedaje Esmerelda and took a little bus from the Tianguis Campesino to Toniná.  Just tell the driver to let you off there and he'll take you right to the entrance for 12 pesos.  To return, it's a bit faster to walk the 300 meters out to the main road so you can pick up any Ocosingo-bound bus.  While a few buses to come into the Toniná entrance to do pickups, they do not always swing by. 

• I was glad to have set aside a whole day for these ruins.  During the rainy season, it's best to explore the ruins a bit earlier in the day when it is cooler and dry, so by the time the rains start in the afternoon, you can take your time in the museum. 

• For cheap eats, head to what I call the ally of taco stands.  From the Hospedaje Esmerelda, walk to the main plaza and turn left.  Keep walking and a couple blocks down there are half a dozen taquerias with a conveniently located Modelorama where you can buy a few cold ones to enjoy while you eat your tacos.  The friendly proprietors at the taco stands don't mind giving you a few glasses either.