Day 66: Sinforosa Canyon

When Gonzalo and I arrived in Guachochi, we weren't sure we were going to do anything other than stay a single night to rest... until we discovered from the Googles that the Sinforosa canyon is considered the "queen of the canyons."  One option we had considered was to do a multi-day hike of the 100 km ultra-marathon route that takes place here every July, but we decided to play it safe and just make it a day trip on our bikes.  The Sinforosa canyon overlook is one of those breathtaking vistas that cannot be described nor can it be captured in a photo.  It reminded us so much of how we felt in Canyonlands National Park, so we just stood there, taking it all in and desperately trying to imprint the vastness in our memories.

Much like Canyonlands, which gets the proverbial shaft in comparison to it's sister Arches National Park, Guachochi and the Sinforosa canyon are overlooked by many tourists in favor of the tourists towns dotting the railway.  Or maybe it's because tourists simply do not know that the Sinforosa canyon even exists.  It's a shame because the tourism infrastructure here has been developed; there is a relatively clean and well-built overlook with bathrooms, camping pavilions, a small store located right outside the gate to the overlook, and the route from Guachochi is well marked by signs.  Guachochi itself has several hotels and enough modern amenities to make any tourist comfortable.  In fact, I probably would have passed through this town without making this day trip if I hadn't done some research online.

It was an easy and fun 18 km ride on dirt roads out to the overlook.

These farms could be straight out of the Little House on the Prairie books with their log cabins and carefully tended crops.

Gah, I wish the pictures did this place justice.

Staring down into the bottom of the Sinforosa canyon... the ultra-marathoners basically have to run straight down into the canyon and back out.

My super awesome bike horn on the edge of the overlook.

There is a short dirt road that plummets down into the canyon from the overlook to a swinging bridge.  Gonzalo decided he wanted to ride the road down, but since I don't like steep descents with huge loose rocks, I locked my bike up top and hiked down instead. 

Watching the rain come down from afar.

Gonzalo crosses the swinging bridge.

Watch your step...

We hiked a bit of the trail... all of a sudden, we heard a "buuuuueeeeennnnaaaaasss" from above.  Somewhere up there is a family of Mexican tourists at the overlook saying "hey" to us.

The recent rains meant there was some water in the stream.

View of the swinging bridge from the stream.

Camping pavilion down by the swinging bridge, complete with a fireplace!  This has got to be the most amazing campsite ever... next time.

Unfortunately, we had not gotten quite enough rain for the Rosalinda waterfall to be running... the camping pavilion is perched just above where it normally runs.

Gonzalo pays the price of riding his bike down... lots of pushing the bike up!

Even hiking out of the canyon, I have to stop and admire the view.

Back at the top, we make a new friend.  He tells us that the man who built the overlook and camping facilities died in a plane crash seven years ago.  His story is fascinating... he grew up in a cave in the Sinforosa canyon, although now, people don't live down there anymore.  I could tell from his calloused feet that he has run up and down these trails countless times.

A few travel notes for cyclists:

• If I had to choose between the multi-day hike between Urique and Batopilas (at least, this time of year) and hiking the Sinforosa canyon, I would choose the Sinforosa canyon just for the weather alone.  

• It's well worth doing an overnight camping trip with your bike on the rim of the canyon.  It's just 10 pesos per person and the caretaker was very friendly... I feel like if you asked for a safe place to stash your bike and extra gear, he would accomodate that request.  While there are camping pavilions up by the overlook, for a truly stunning location, keep going down the road until you get to the Rosalinda waterfall.  It's less than 4 km.  The stream was running so you shouldn't have any problems with water if you have a filter.

• The ride out to the Sinforosa overlook can be done as a 30 km loop.  There is a well-maintained dirt road out that is about 18 km, and then about 1 km from the overlook on the way back, stay right at the fork and it will take you on a 12 km alternate route back to town on a bumpier but still nice dirt road.  Note that the alternate route back is prone to flooding in a few parts.

A random aside... I'm often amused by the questions local Mexicans ask us about out bike tour.  Whereas Americans tend to ask questions about safety, logistics, and timing, Mexicans tend to ask questions about what we eat and whether we get tired from pedaling.  In addition to burritos, tacos, comida corrida, and breakfasts that we occasionally splurge on when we come across a small comedor, lately our canasta básica consists largely of the following foods while on the road:

• Flour tortillas - US$0.50 for a small pack
• Multigrain bread - US$1.90 pesos 
• Maria cookies - US$0.50 for a roll (great smeared with Nutella or peanut butter)
• Peanut butter - US$3.85 for a small jar (pricey but I love it for energy)
• Nutella - US$3.85 for a small jar (pricey but one of those splurges that is worth it)
• Branfrut bars - US$0.40 each (best pre-packaged snack bar I have found so far)
• Instant oatmeal - US$0.90 for 400g (we mix this with raisins - US$0.90 for 200g, pecans - US$2.40 for 200g, and cinnamon - US$0.60 for 50g for a filling and energy packed breakfast)
• Powdered sugar - US$1.00 for 400g (dissolves better for making limeade and oatmeal)
• Limes - US$.35 for 15 limes (for veggie salads, tuna, and limeade)

Yes, I consider a lime squeezer an essential part of my kitchen... I dress veggie salads with lime juice and hot sauce, Gonzalo loves lime juice in his tuna, and limeade is an awesome thirst quencher.

• Pistachios - US$3.50 for 200g or peanuts - US$0.80 for a small package
• Pickled jalapeños - US$0.35 for small can
• Tuna fish - US$2.15 for family size can
• Pasta - US$0.50 for 200g
• Mushrooms - US$1.00 for a small can
• Refried beans - US$0.75 for a small can
• Apples - US$1.50 for 4 (hold up great in panniers)
• Hot sauce and Tajín - US$0.90
• Salt, pepper, oregano, garlic, pepper flakes
• Honey
• Tea
• Microdyn - US$1.00 (to treat water)

Gonzalo has a few extras he likes to pack due to his sweet tooth, including jam, cajeta quemada, cookies, and local sweets like dulce de guayava.  When we get to civilization and stay somewhere a night or two, we go crazy on cheap produce to make fruit and veggie salads in our hotel (beefsteak tomato - US$0.16 for 1, broccoli - US$0.33 for a small head, carrots - US$0.11 for 2, cucumber - US$0.20 for 1).